Seconding the recommendation above. Fixed aperture is basically a nightmare for shutter control in midday sun. Unfortunately, the $70 Freewell DJI Air 3 All Day ND Filter 8-Pack is kinda a chore to swap and the case isn't as good as I expected. I've had issues with the fitment being tight, which is SO annoying. But honestly? You NEED them or ur 4K60 will look like a jittery mess.

oh man, I totally feel u on this one. I've been flying for like 7 years now and honestly, the fixed aperture on the DJI Air 3 is probably the only 'downside' to such an awesome drone. Basically, the 180-degree rule exists because our eyes naturally see some motion blur when things move fast. If your shutter is hitting 1/1000 or higher on a bright day, you lose that blur and everything looks kinda 'staccato' or jittery... basically it looks too crisp for its own good. Here is why I think they're actually worth it:
* Natural Motion: It makes your 60fps footage look way smoother, especially when you're flying low or doing fast pans.
* Exposure Control: It lets you keep your ISO locked at 100 even in direct noon sun so the image stays super clean with no noise.
* Professionalism: It's basically the easiest way to make your hobbyist work look like a high-end production. I've been using the DJI Air 3 ND Filters Set (ND8/16/32/64) for a while now and I'm super satisfied with how it works reallyyy well. I was worried about the dual-camera setup being a chore to swap, but it's actually pretty easy once you get used to the twist-and-lock thing. Wait, I mean, it's definitely an extra step to take before every flight, but for the quality jump? Totally worth it. If you want the absolute best glass, the PolarPro Vivid Collection ND Filter Set for DJI Air 3 is also a solid choice. Seriously, once you see the difference in the motion, you wont go back. gl!

Just sharing my experience: I went through this exact same dilemma last year when I first grabbed my Air 3. Basically, because we're stuck with those wide fixed apertures ($f/1.7$ and $f/2.8$), the sensors just get BLASTED with light. This forces the shutter speed to like 1/2000, which creates a jittery "staccato" effect instead of smooth motion blur. I'm pretty cost-conscious, so I actually tried to avoid buying extra gear at first, but honestly, the footage just didn't look right... I found that you don't need the most expensive glass to get that look. I eventually picked up the K&F Concept DJI Air 3 ND Filter Kit 6-Piece (ND8-ND128) since it's much cheaper than the brands mentioned earlier. It’s a bit of a chore to swap them out in the field, but it’s the only way to keep your shutter at double your frame rate without overexposing. Definitely worth it for hobbyist work tho! 👍

Honestly, I totally agree with the guys above about the sensors getting blasted. Ive spent way too much time doing market research on this, and from a technical perspective, you really have to be careful with the cheaper end of the market right now. One thing people often overlook is color shifting. A lot of the budget glass out there has a nasty habit of adding a magenta or green tint to your footage. This is a total nightmare to fix in post-production because the two sensors on the Air 3 sometimes react differently to the same filter coating. If your trying to match the 24mm and 70mm shots, a bad filter will make them look like they were shot on different drones. Few things to watch out for:

• Gimbal motor stress from filters that are even a fraction of a gram too heavy
• Soft edges on the 70mm lens because the glass quality isnt high enough for the telephoto zoom
• Lack of oleophobic coatings which makes cleaning fingerprints a huge chore in the field Basically, dont just buy the cheapest set you find on a random site. Tbh, if you buy low-quality glass, youre basically nerfing those beautiful sensors you paid so much for. Its better to have just two high-quality NDs for specific lighting than a whole kit of junk glass.